Frankfurter Kranz Cake (What I learned at clown school and the cake that sums it up)

Cakes

Dear Joe, this is about trying and dying. Hope you like it.

YOU ARE DYING UP THERE, FLORA. Can you hear that? WE ARE NOT LAUGHING.

This was our teacher calling out over an uncomfortably loud country music track, which she had looped back to the beginning twice now because poor, poor Flora was still up on stage and still hadn’t made us laugh.

She was given nothing by the teacher; no props, no scenario to play in, no warning of the country music. She was just told to get up with her red nose on. This was week two of a 6 days-a-week, 5-week-long, clowning workshop that I had paid a lot of money to be on; we weren’t even halfway through, but we were expected to be capable of being funny (or at least entertaining) by now.

Flora had been trying, hard. She had been opening and closing windows, marching and dancing about the studio, she even tried to use her water bottle as a prop for inspiration. But the life had been sucked out of the whole room, we were all uncomfortable and very bored.

At minute 7 on stage with nothing to do, Flora looked as though she might burst into tears. Flora, you are flopping hard, the teacher again. I KNOW. I DON’T KNOW WHAT TO DO she shouted back, which to be fair to her, did get a small laugh.

It was incredible and a bit alarming to me, to be witnessing someone in so much visible distress while feeling a sense of gap, of nothingness, towards them. As a group we wanted Flora to succeed, she had got up on stage to try! But at the same time, a feeling of deadness amongst us was palpable.

The most shattering thing about those violent endings was the feeling of being so publicly alone. (This does come good, just give it a minute.) Imagine it for yourself; you are in a room full of strangers and you have been told that you need to make them laugh, or at least capture their attention, so you get up in front of these people on your own, with no plan of what you will do, and you try. But it doesn’t work, and all of a sudden this room full of people is staring at you blankly, and a teacher is telling you, in front of everyone, that what you are doing is not working, and you experience a strange kind of black hole that you didn’t know existed in your mind. In this black hole, you lose touch with all sense of self, logic, reason, and, worst of all, it is where you lose all sense of play. You die in a big gap where there are people but you can’t get to them and they can’t get to you.

At minute 9 of Flora’s death, something magic happened. She gave up. She stopped everything she was doing and slumped to the floor like a brick. A lost brick. Instantly you could feel the room soften. The teacher stopped heckling for a second, and as a group, we were transfixed by this sad, but very honest clown doing nothing other than looking back at us. Then, she started to play. It was as if she hadn’t heard the music properly until this moment. Like a child caught in their own game, she started to play some bongos that were in the country track (strange track) in thin air. And that was it. We were all jolted into a genuine laugh. It was a funny image. Our laugh surprised the clown so much that she shot up, celebrated her victory, and played the bongos again. This only made the whole thing funnier. The teacher stopped the music and Flora went to take her seat, floating, completely bewildered and as though she had lost a second skin. I felt as though something inside my heart had been well and truly touched. Magic (some real human connection) happened. It was our job as a group then, to try and articulate to her what happened when we laughed and to bring her back into the room.

It was easily a flash of the best clowning I’d see in the whole 5 weeks of school.

The laughter that got me was when it came as a byproduct of being moved by another person; as a spasm, an impulse in the body that recognized another person’s vulnerability. A clown’s joy or pain or fear is everyone else’s business the moment they step on stage. That’s why it’s magic. That’s what I learned. Dying is no fun if you do it alone. I saw great clowning when the clown was able to deliver themselves truthfully, optimistically and playfully, so it could be digested by the bodies in the audience; so we could laugh and then break for lunch. So we could try, and then die again the next day.

This cake was the only cake that could accompany this letter. I got a slice of it one day at a bakery opposite the studio we worked in. I chose it because I thought it looked the most cake-like cake I could see on the counter, and I needed it to be recognizable in this way because I thought I was going to use it in a sketch that day. I didn’t end up using it as a prop, I just ate it at break. And it was perfect. I picked apart all the components of it and did a lot of googling. What I ate was a Frankfurter Kranz, a German Crown Cake, which is a firm sponge cake made with a bit of cornflour to give it a soft and close texture. It’s flavoured with lemon and almond, baked in a ring, covered with German Buttercream (crème pâtissière whipped with butter), and then coated in caramelized nuts and topped with glacé cherries. What I love about the recipe is that it HAS TO HAVE cherries on top, literally no Frankfurter Kranz recipe ever leaves out the cherries on top.  

I’m currently reading Adam Kay’s memoir as a junior doctor, This is Going to Hurt. So, I’m taking the junior doctor mantra ‘see one, do one, teach one’ with this cake: ‘eat one, do one, teach one’. This recipe comes from a very old German baking book I found in Berlin earlier last year, on a free bookshelf on the side of a road. I’ve tweaked it a bit, but the framework is from that book.  

Expectation notes – This is a project bake, a project bake that I am very passionate about. The cake is firm, it’s not a light and fluffy situation. The almond and lemon are not flavours you will taste strongly, the lemon juice helps the texture, and the zest and almond extract are adding depth of flavour. The caramelized nuts on the outside may ‘bleed’ a sugary liquid once on the cake – that is ok! It just means your caramel crystalized/seized while you were cooking it – it will still taste great, it just won’t be a crispy outer layer. The cake is best on the 2nd or 3rd day; it does well with resting so is a good one to make ahead, if you’re a planner. Right, I think we’ve covered it all now.

Ingredients

For the Cake

  • 200g unsalted butter, softened
  • 200g caster sugar
  • Pinch of salt
  • 4 medium eggs
  • The zest of one large lemon, plus 20g of the juice
  • 1/2 tsp almond extract
  • 200g plain flour
  • 100g cornflour, corn strach if you’re in America
  • 2tsp / 7g baking powder

For the German Buttercream

  • 500 ml milk
  • Pinch of salt
  • 100g caster sugar
  • 100g eggs, this is about 2 medium eggs
  • 1 tsp vanilla paste, good-quality extract or the seeds of half a vanilla pod
  • 2tbs cornflour
  • 2tbs plain flour
  • 250g unsalted butter, softened
  • 60g icing sugar

For the Nuts

  • 200g chopped nuts, hazelnuts or almonds are traditional, mixed nuts are cheaper
  • 65g caster sugar
  • 35g unsalted butter

For Finishing

  • Raspberry or strawberry jam
  • Glace Cherries, technically these are optional

Method

Preheat the oven to 190 / 170 fan. Grease and dust with flour a bunt or ring form tin of about 9inch. Cream together the butter, sugar, and salt until fluffed up. Beat in one egg at a time, stopping to scrape down the sides of the bowl in between additions – the more carefully you do this the less likely it is to curdle, but don’t worry if it does, it will come out just fine. Now add the rest of the ingredients; lemon juice and zest, almond extract, plain flour, cornflour, and baking powder. Beat the mixture just until you have a smooth batter. Pour into the prepared tin and bake for about 40-45 mins. Allow the cake to cool completely, ideally resting it overnight.

Make the crème pâtissière for the German Buttercream. Heat the milk, half of the sugar, and salt in a medium saucepan over medium heat. Meanwhile, whisk the rest of the sugar, eggs, vanilla, and both flours in a large bowl. When the milk comes to a simmer, remove from the heat and gradually pour over the egg mixture while whisking vigorously, until all the milk is incorporated. Now pour this mixture back into the medium saucepan. Whisk the custard vigorously over medium heat until the mixture has thickened, then count 30 seconds whisking all the while, and take off the heat. Pour the custard into a clean and dry bowl and cover with cling film, making sure the cling film is in contact with the surface of the custard – this will prevent a skin forming. Allow to chill completely, this could be in the fridge overnight.

To finish the buttercream, whip the butter and icing sugar in a large bowl until very light and fluffy – about 5 mins. Whip the cooled custard into the butter mixture a couple of heaped tablespoons at a time. Don’t worry if your buttercream looks slightly curdled, it’s a hard one to get perfectly smooth and it will be covered with nuts anyway.

Put all the ingredients for the caramelized nuts into a heavy-based pan and heat on medium heat for about 3 minutes, agitating the mixture with a spatula, making sure the nuts don’t burn. When the nuts are as dark as you want, tip out onto a plate or baking tray to cool completely.

Slice the cake into three layers. Reserve a little over a third of the buttercream for the outside of the cake. Fill the layers with a generous amount of buttercream and jam. Coat the whole cake with buttercream reserving a very small amount to stick the cherries on. Cover the cake with the nuts, using your hand to pat them on. Top the crown of the cake with cherries, using the remaining buttercream as glue.

The cake lasts well, at its best even on the 2nd or 3rd day.  

I hope you make this cake. Thank you, Flora. Caitlin xxx

Apricot Streuselkuchen

Cakes

Hi Joe

This is for our Grandparents, the most generous people I know.

I keep a lot of the letters Oma and Grandad write me. Some of these letters make me cry, it’s actually happened quite a few times now. Haha it’s becoming a trend. They don’t make me cry in a bad way. I’m not sure why this happens, I think it’s what happens when you feel a particular kind of love in your heart. I have a couple different stacks of the letters, in different draws and different rooms spread between Oxford and Glasgow. Do you keep the letters they send you?

I asked Oma to send me her recipe for Streuslekuchen, the stuff she always had about 3 boxes of stashed in the freezer just in case there was ever a…Streuslekuch shortage…? Haha can you image! What would become of the world. I got a letter a few days later of the recipe handwritten, in true Oma style.

If your name isn’t Joe and you don’t know what Streuselkuchen is – it’s a German vanilla sponge cake topped with a cinnamon sugar crumble. Cake-like but falls somewhere in-between the biscuit and cake category. It’s not the most jazzy thing in the world but you’re world will be brighter with it. You’ll eat one slice and then eat lots more in quick succession. My lil addition of apricot jam, was because we had apricot jam in the fridge. Feel free to leave it out.

Ingredients

For the StreuselDepending on the size of your tin, you may end up with extra. Stick it in the freezer to use another day. Or um eat it?

  • 200g flour – I’ve made it with plain and self raising, there isn’t too much difference here
  • 125g sugar
  • 1/2 tsp cinnamon
  • 125g butter – fridge cold and cubed

For the Kuchen.

  • 1/2 tsp salt
  • 500g self raising flour
  • 200g butter – softened
  • 200g sugar
  • 1/2 tsp vanilla extract
  • 2 eggs
  • 250ml milk
  • Apricot jam – a couple of tablespoons if you want to use
  • Icing sugar to serve – 2 ish tablespoons. This bit is v important. Oma never made Streuselkuchen without a thick powdering of icing sugar, it doesn’t taste the same without

Method

Pre heat the oven to 190 / 170 fan. Grease and line a shallow 20 x 25 cm tin. A 20cm square tin will work just as well. This is a forgiving cake, so work with what you have.

Make the streusel. Put the flour, sugar, cinnamon and cubed (cold) butter in a bowl. Using your finger tips rub the butter into the flour mixture. You are looking for a rough texture, with smaller and lager bits of crumble. Put the bowl in the freezer or the fridge while you make the cake.

For the cake, measure out the flour, add the salt and set aside.

In a large bowl, cream together the butter, sugar and vanilla until lighter in colour and fluffed up around the sides of the bowl. I use electric beaters but a wooden spoon will do it.

Add one egg and beat until fully incorporated, then the second egg and a table spoon of the flour. Beat again until the mixture has fluffed up.

Tip half of the flour and salt into the butter and egg mixture. Beat to combine. Now pour in the milk and add the rest of the flour. Mix until there is no more dry flour.

Pour the batter into the cake tin and smooth out. Spread the apricot jam over the batter layer if you are using. Follow with a generous covering of the streusel, you shouldn’t see any cake beneath.

Bake for 30 – 35 mins, until a knife inserted into the cake comes out with no wet batter.

Once cooled, remove from the tin, cover with sifted icing sugar and cut into big chunks.

Joe, I reckon you’ll say somethin like ‘mmm cake. Can we put some chocolate ganache maybe in place of the apricot jam?’ Love Caitlin X

Lebkuchen

Uncategorized

Hey Joe,

Happy New Year’s Eve! Here is a Christmas recipe for you! This Lebkuchen recipe is from Mum’s German Christmas Baking book, it’s what I used to make the gingerbread house. If you are not Joe, maybe you don’t know what Lebkuchen is? It’s a German Christmas biscuit. There are lots of different kinds, but the one in this recipe is the best. It’s a cross between a cake and a biscuit that is spiced and sweetened with honey. A bit like soft set gingerbread… but with no ginger. Mmm! You’ll never want to eat anything else at Christmas ever again.

This bit has nothing to do with Lebkuchen. We met Becky and Roly for a walk yesterday about a 30min drive away from home. In the car on the way back we were talking about how good it was to see them, and to see people around this time of year. I said ‘I like hearing about other people’s Christmases’, you ‘what, listen to other people’s Christmas and then say nothing about ours?’, me ‘yeah.’, you ‘classic’. Then we laughed. Me ‘it normalises it a bit’, you ‘mm, yeah it does’. That wasn’t us saying no one ever asks about our Christmas (lol, this would be pretty sad), or that Becky and Roly didn’t ask or want to know (they did!), but it was us acknowledging our quietness about the day, that normally we wouldn’t because we wouldn’t be together with the same friends. It was comforting to hear that our friends’ days had their own drama and comforting that this time I wasn’t the only one being quiet about the day because most of the time our Christmas is a little bit too painful, too predictably strange to talk about. The conversation we had in the car on the way back made me very calm and happy. The music was good and your lemon jelly bean car freshener smelt nice.

This dough needs time to rest over night in the fridge, it needs this time to develop its flavour. This will also help the biscuits keep their shape when baked in the oven because your dough will be a bit cold before hitting the oven. Sorry, I hate it when recipes say that, I know you want your Lebkuchen now, I do too.

This makes A LOT of Lebkuchen. haha. But it’s a really forgiving dough that keeps well once baked. You can also keep the dough in the fridge for up to 3 days before baking. So, if you don’t have the oven space to bake all 40 at once, spread out your baking over a couple days.

Ingredients

For about 40 pieces of Lebkuchen

  • 250g honey
  • 250g brown sugar
  • 150g butter
  • 100g ground almonds
  • 400 to 450g plain flour – start with 400g, if you think your dough is too soft to roll out add in the extra 50g
  • 1 teaspoon cinnamon
  • 1/2 teaspoon ground cloves
  • 1/2 teaspoon ground cardamom
  • 1/2 teaspoon nutmeg
  • 1/2 teaspoon all spice – if you don’t have this (I didn’t) replace with ground ginger or any other spice listed above
  • Zest of half a lemon
  • 1 tablespoon cocoa powder
  • 1 egg
  • 1 teaspoon bicarbonate of soda
  • 2 tablespoons rum or water

Method

Melt the honey, sugar and butter in a saucepan over a medium heat, stirring regularly until the sugar has dissolved into the melted honey and butter. At this point there should be no grainy bits of sugar on the spoon used to stir the mixture.

Pour the melted mixture into a bowl and allow to cool slightly while you measure out the flour and ground almonds.

Add the ground almonds, sifted flour, spices and egg into the melted honey mix and work together with a spoon (or hands) to form a dough. The Dough will not form into a ball, but it will be stiff and quite hard to stir together.

In a cup mix the bicarbonate of soda and rum or water until dissolved. Add this to the dough, and beat mix together until the dough is shiny and and tacky (not really sticky). Don’t worry about the dough being stiff, it’s a mini workout for the ol’ biceps.

Cover the bowl of dough with cling film and leave overnight in the fridge.

The next day heat the oven to 180 and line a couple of baking trays with grease proof paper, or butter. Take the dough out of the fridge for about 15 mins. This will just make it easier to roll out.

Lightly flour your worksurface and rolling pin (or wine bottle) and roll out the dough to about 4mm thick. Cut out your lebkuchen shapes, re rolling the dough until it’s all gone. If your biscuit cutters stick then dip them in flour before cutting.

Bake for 10 mins or until the biscuits are puffed up and the edges look set. They should come out of the oven very soft, this is good! Don’t be tempted to bake them until they are firm, or your lebkuchen will be sad and dry.

Once cool, you can leave them as they are, cover them in lemon icing (mix icing sugar and lemon juice to a runny consistency) or dip them in melted chocolate. The Lebkuchen is your oyster!

Becky and Roly, this post is for you. Happy New Year’s Eve, Love Caitlin xxx